Seoul Adventures continued: Part 3

     Give up yet?  Did you figure out where we went on Saturday?  After deciding to stay another day, I was def. "outvoted" on what we would do with our extra day in Seoul... so Friday, we did a bit of detective work (aka coffee shop computer-using) to set things up for Saturday.  Since Emily has been in Russia, she has her "papers" (passport) on her at all times.  Anna and I would be using our Korean ids.

    The day started a bit EARLY.  We scavenged up a bit of food and snackage, then headed to a NICE hotel where we were to sign in and meet the tour group.

 This was the view out of the hotel window.

   We opted not to get coffee here, as it was like $15 a cup or something ridiculous.  It was a pretty place to walk through, but we were happy with our lodging elsewhere. (the love motel)
  Then it was onto the bus and off to...
      the DMZ!
   Now, when I first talked about moving to Korea - one of the first things people told me was NOT to go here... and there were some valid concerns expressed.
  We went with an "official, legit" tour group.  This way we took the bus onto base, then had a guide show us almost everything that civilians can see right now.  They warned us that if there were any "alerts", we would be removed from the base (for our safety) and the tour would be stopped...  but anyway, off we went.
  The Demilitarized Zone (DMZ) winds 214 km across the korean Peninsula from east to west. The Military Demarcation Line (MDL) is an "invisible" line formed at the conclusion of the Korean War with the ceasefire Agreement on July 27th, 1953.  The DMZ is a buffer zone ceasing all military and hostile actions.
  Throughout the world, attention is drawn to the symbol of the DMZ.  Since this area has been "out-of-the-way" for the last 50 years, it has also become known as a practical Ecosystem.
  Our first stop was to Dorasan Station.  This is the train station that has been built for "after the reconciliation" - when relations are better with North Korea, it will open up easier trade for both import and export between China, for example.  So in we went through the doors.

 Notice that the place was EMPTY.  It is a very clean, modern looking building.  It would make a great train station.  Here is my friend, Anna, posing for a picture as if she were waiting for the next train.
   This is the closest station to North Korea on the Kyeongui railroad line.  Our guide said that Pres. George W. Bush visited here on February 20, 2002.  This station has become the center of public attention, but it seems sad, empty, and oddly calming to me.

   The place is big, but also a bit eerie.  The guide (Korean) spoke openly about both "the war" that is to come, and the "reconciliation" - the hope that is here for both is incredible.  It's spoken about as a fact, not a possibility, or even a dream. Tons of money has been spent on this - and there are no trains coming or going.
  You can walk through the gate here.  You can even go to the counter and get something "stamped" - it will be about 50 cents towards the first tickets sold, if you save them and wait...

    When you go through the gate and down a hall, you get to the train tracks out back.  Many Russian novels came rushing to my mind.  Such hope.  A sorrowful place, though.  Big, empty train stations.  Vast buildings as shallow as some of the people here must be feeling.  It was almost unimaginable.  Def. eerie.

   Looking down the tracks... that basically go nowhere without the trains.  Creepy.
      The sign and view from the tracks, back of the station:

  Outside the station, on the way back to the bus, there is a memorial wall of some sort.  I don't know really what it said, but it seemed like a somber moment.
  The next stop had Korean soldiers - there both for our protection and to "watch us".  All day, there were strict rules about when and where you could take pictures, talk, etc.  You were not to make loud noises, motion or point, or e disruptive.  Here is one soldier, mainly watching that we didn't take pictures after we crossed the "photo line."

     One of the guard shacks, looking towards the North Korean side.

  Seriously, the yellow line was a photo line.  You had to be behind it to take any pictures.  I am glad I am taller... and I also really like taking "shadow pictures" like this lately.
  We could look out to the North Korean side - and also could see the flag for both North and South Korea in certain spots.  Mostly, we saw big, open land with some mountains.  We could also see the "village" where people lived waiting for a time where they could be reunited with their families or friends.  It was a sad thing to see.
     Did you think I was kidding?  No really, it's a "photo line."

  The bell towers around here had camo. patterned graffiti walls.  Odd.
  This was at the Dora Observatory - where you can see both the DMZ and Gaesung City, the second largest city in North Korea.  You can also see "Propaganda Village" Kijongdong of North Korea.

 Then it was back to the bus... and later we went to the 3rd Tunnel.  You take a roller-coaster bit of a wagon cart down into the tunnel.  However, as you walk up to the "ride", this part is a bit touristy...

 So, yes, I did pose for the pic. - that IS me in the middle of the "M"... but something feels very wrong here.

If you're gonna do it, at least commit to the photo op, right?  Hmmm.

 

 The symbolism... and moment to take a picture... was not lost on us here.  Can you see me in the picture above?  (look to your right, my head is just above the front statue person's head)

    I don't know what this say, but they look a bit like giant pez dispensers...
     Now, we can not take pictures anywhere near the tunnels beyond these touristy things.... So, I will just tell you a bit about the tunnel.  This tunnel was discovered in October of 1978, before I was even born.  It is just over 1600 meters long.  It is 1.95 meters high and 2.1 meters wide.  It penetrates 435 meters south of the Military Demarcation Line at a point only 4 km south of the Truce Village of Panmunjom.  It runs through bedrock at a depth about 73 meters below ground.
  This was one of multiple tunnels evidently designed for a surprise attack on Seoul.  The guide said that 3 North Korean soldiers can fit across the tunnel, marching in a line.  (Note that I went single file behind my friends, and I ducked almost the whole way through!)  This means that North Korea could move a full division per hour, plus their weapons.
   It was an interesting thing to see - and to hear from a Korean tour guide.  Often I wondered how the "stories" would be different were I taking a tour from the North Korean side - but direction of dynomite sticks placed in to blow out holes, etc. support the South Korean claims.
  You have to wear a helmet and it all seems very "Indiana Jones meets amusement park ride meets warzone" - a strange mix.  It does make you think about what life must have been/be for some of the other people passing through or over these tunnels.

   Next it wass off to Imjingak - Freedom Bridge.  This was used to exchange prisoners after the Korean war, so it's been called Freedom Bridge since then.  There is a sign that says, "The train wants to run."
    Here we got off the bus again and walked around a designated area.  There were streamer/ribbon fence memorials.
 

  There were many memorials and little buildings to see around here.  There is one place where people bring food yearly to set down and remember those lost in the war.  Our guide mentioned this briefly.  I like the bell towers.

  More ribbon memorial fences:

 A very old train, and a little kid.  I like to mix the old past with the future hope.

 "Are you look'n at ME?"

 Even old and rusty, trains are pretty.

 Dirty water as I walked over a walking bridge.

 The tracks have been laid... the train station is built... trains do not run though.
    The trains have been silenced. 

 Hope will not be silenced.  Those who sacrificed will not be forgotten.

 Another memorial.  I think this is where people leave food, flowers, and other small gifts.

 I climbed up MANY steps to get another perspective.

 Flags from countries all around the world.

 Part of this section was a real amusement park - complete with rides and a feris wheel.  It was moving, but no one was on it!  Super creepy.

 More rides.  Weird.  The music was playing, as well, eerie.

 I do like the bells.

This kid wanted a better view of the train track bridge.

 Yes, lots of steps.  My knee is getting stronger every day...

 It was strange to see beauty mixed in with a relatively sad place.

 Lunch time!  This is where we ate.  Korean food.  Good kimchi!

 A rooster was wandering around in the yard by the bus.  I named him Frank.

 Frank, by our bus.

Now, I like purple... but this was a bit too much.  Um, the tour bus was "Korean" through and through.  However, it was a comfortable ride for the day.

  After lunch, we went to another place.  We had to sign a intense "waver" - and then we could go into the building wherein we would cross over the line into North Korea.  There were serious looking (maybe not just looking) guards all around.  This is the room where one side of the table is North Korea, and the other side is South Korea.  We were give 2 min. to take pictures.  We were not to talk much here.

 Looking out the window, this is the MDL line - do not cross it without permission.

 The line is marked here with a cement block. 
At the DMZ, some places have a post about a foot high to mark the line.
Of course, some of these are also in mine fields - so I stayed well enough away.

 I told the girls, if EVER there was a time to listen and follow directions - THIS was the day.
Anna and Emily pose, on the NORTH Korean side.

 It seemed ridiculous in part, but I do not expect to go back here.
Besides, we def. were not the only ones taking pics.

 Outside, we were permitted to take pic. facing the North Korean side only.

 The blue buildings have the cement block between them - the line.
The whitish building in the distance is North Korea's side.

 Some parts reminded me of US military bases.

 Looking into North Korea.

 I inquired about the guards standing half-way out.  It is a pose from ju-jit-su.  Interesting.

 When we got back on the bus, we drove past some places where we were not allowed to get off the bus.  I took some pictures from the window, but I don't remember what they all were.

 Some sort of memorial.  I do remember this being something important.

 This is the "bridge to nowhere" or something?

 There was also a stop to a gift shop, where I purchased a tee-shirt for my boyfriend, who serves in the US Army and was stationed in Korea twice.  He used to work here... so I got him a shirt.  Ha.

   There is more to be said about the visit to the DMZ - perhaps not the best for a blog post, but just ask me and I'll talk about it with you.  Please keep Korea in your prayers.  I knew some of this history, but visiting here makes it all more real.  For me, I was reminded of Russian history and novels.  I was more appreciative of the freedoms I have as an American.  Yes, there is a connection to this land and these people, whether it's the few months I have spent living here or just more of a human connection.  I remember with the Koreans, I mourn with the Koreans, and I look towards a hope of a brighter future for Korea. 

 

   

After the DMZ tour, we returned to the place of origin at the hotel by bus... and Saturday's adventures were only starting.  More posting on all that to follow soon.